Day 28 - Riding The One and then some
In 2004, I described the town of Carpinteria, which was my home for the night, like Milton-by-the-Sea. I think it’s changed since then. It’s a lot more upscale than it was. And that’s a real shame.
I wanted to get up early so that I could get an early start so that, if it came down to it, I could ride through Big Sur and straight onto Berkeley - a distance of at least 375 miles. That was a lot and I figured that I wouldn’t do it, but you know, just in case.
Making my way around town, Carpinteria didn’t have the charm it did four years ago. Sure, some parts did, like Casa del Sol, the motel that housed me. But not much else.
I have a thing for old motels. Not run-down motels (well, I have a thing for them too, but it’s different). This motel was great. The walls are poured concrete. Very cool. The ceilings are hardwood with real beams. Easy to love. Ok, the heater didn’t work and the bathroom was redone in some crappy 80’s homemaker style, but everything else was alright.
For the first part of the trip, I was avoiding highways. I wanted to see some towns. The first “town” that I came across was Santa Barbara. It’s odd to go from the blindingly poor conditions of the desert to … this. “Privileged” doesn’t even come close to describing it. I often describe this kind of stuff as “Bucknell Parents’ Weekend 24/7.” But even that doesn’t touch it.
Everyone who lives here, everyone, is several thousand times richer than I’ll ever be (and ever want to be). It’s amazing how ridiculous it is.
However, Santa Barbara, like Santa Fe, is a nice looking town. Santa Fe is nicer (sorry, Santa Barbara, but deal with it). While there, I saw the most amazing bus. Not a VW Bus - not exactly. It was an old school bus, painted blue like the sky, man. And it had a VW Vanagon welded to the top of it… and a little patio thing out the back. It was pretty cool.
I wish I would have taken more pictures or coaxed them into giving me a tour. But it was early and… well I just should have anyway.
Goletta was the next town. Actually, it’s sort of attached to Santa Barbara - but very very very clearly not Santa Barbara. First of all, their Main Street runs perpendicular to Santa Barbara’s main street. And it’s clearly not Santa Barbara.
Goletta is “famous” because that is where Ebullition Records and HeartAttack ‘Zine existed/exist. They’ve put out some great records and hopefully will again.
I didn’t stop there or anything, but it was neat to go through the town.
“The One” is California Route 1. It’s famous for its ocean views and twisty, windy ways. But before it gets all twisty, it winds its way through some very picturesque central Californian hillsides.
I was usually all alone on this road, which is often how I like it. And on the occasion that I would hit a small town, it was usually pretty unassuming. A few of them were fairly impressed with themselves, but I didn’t stay long in those towns. They have no soul and will suck yours out.
Lompoc was a nice town. Small, mostly latino. Union Pacific Rail had a little depot here and I’m betting most of the population works there - or in the fields picking the stuff that will be carried by Union Pacific. Guadalupe was also a similar town.
But soon this stretch of road, which took me 14 or so miles away from the Pacific Ocean, would be at an end. Basically it ends with elephant seals.
Thousands of elephant seals use this one particular beach for mating, birthing and molting. Today they were molting. However, over 4,000 baby elephant seals were born here in Decemberish. The seals are often here and when we were through here in 2004, they were also present. As were a ton of people. And ground squirrels. Very not shy ground squirrels. Adorable.
It was time to hit the road. The twists awaited, so I geared up and hit the twists.
Now, I’m not usually a huge fan of “twisties,” but these were fun and the road was usually my own. Had this been a weekend, that wouldn’t be the case. But it wasn’t and I had a great time.
For nearly 80 miles I got a perfect view of the ocean. I saw cliffs and bridges built in the 30’s and very few other motorists.
It was a perfect ride. If I could turn around and do it again, I would.
I twisted my way to Big Sur State Park. This was supposed to be where I was going to camp, just like in 2004. However, it was 2pm. And I was cold. The temps were in the high 50’s and would only be dropping. The air is crisp, but soggy, because of the ocean. Cold and damp was on store for me through the night.
Or, I could ride through to Berkeley - some 150 or so miles north. Could I make it? My headlamp was still out, though I bought a replacement for it in Goletta. I should be able to make it to Cole’s well before nightfall. But what if I got lost or something?
I figured it was worth the risk. I didn’t want to stop riding. Sure, I put on 175ish miles, but could I really go for 175 more? And most of those would be interstate miles.
Hm. Yes. Yes I did. I felt like riding on the interstate. There, I said it. I guess the twists got me all twisted.
And as for fears of getting lost, well, I got lost. Several times. But this was fun too! It’s great to see the look on someone’s face when you pass them going 80mph on a little red scooter. That is especially rewarding when it’s an SUV or a Harley. The look they give you is worth the risk of going 80mph on a little red scooter.
A few sort of faulty directions later and I was there! Here! I was in Berkeley and Cole and Josh were welcoming and wonder and we had pasta (the quintessential tour food) and it was good!
What’s in store for me for the rest of the week? Who knows! Let’s rock!
Miles today: 420
Mile total: 4971
