Day Eight - If it weren’t for set backs, I wouldn’t have any backs at all.
Ok. Today was/is pretty nasty. I got as far as Rolla, Missouri and had to call it quits. I’ve never ridden in rain this heavy. They’re saying that some places got 5″ of rain. That is ridiculous.
But let’s begin where I left off this morning. At Panera.
The skies looked a bit threatening and there seemed to be some storms on the horizon. According to the weather, maybe a storm around 1pm. No problem. I’ll ride through it and live to tell the tale.
And for awhile, it was a really nice ride. I checked out the town of Eureka. Not much there. It looked like they took a lot of pride in it and it was nice, but nothing for me, really. But the ride to the next town, Pacific, was nice.
Where they cut away parts of the mountain to make the road, there are caves. That sentence was weirdly worded. Sorry. But there are caves, nonetheless. It was pretty cool.
Rittenburg1 said that there was a historical marker here describing that the Confederates came to this point. The marker is now gone. I wonder what happened to it.
He also mentions there being an overlook with stairs going up to it. I’m betting that’s where the caves are. This area will now be a strip mall, ok?
I passed Gray Summit, where Old, old 66 and Old New 66 meet. I was on Old New 66, by the way. My original directions had me going the Old Old 66 alignment, so I was a bit out of sorts. Also, for some odd reason, Historic 66 isn’t marked. There were no signs.
I finally figured it out, taking a picture of a funky old motel sign while doing it. Off in the distance I could see the clouds getting thicker. But the weather guy said no rain till 4ish. It was about 11.
The stretch of 66 between Gray Summit and St. Clair has some lovely curves. There’s a section of it that slides away from the interstate. A few old motels and a dead gas station or two make the ride a bit more memorable than not.
Which is nice, because not too much farther down the road, Route 66 becomes nothing more than a boring frontage road. The interstate is mere feet from it.
In St. Clair, I stopped at R & R Ace Hardware to get an extension cord for camping tonight. The weather guy said that there wouldn’t be too much in the way of rain over night. No problem. I’m ok with rain over night. Just not when I’m trying to set up the tent. Give me 10 minutes and then you can rain all you please. Till morning, when I need 10 more minutes to strike the tent.
Just west of Stanton, around 11:30, the skies took to looking mighty nasty. Several rather large bolts of lightening stretched from black clouds to the ground. You could literally see the rain falling from them.
It wasn’t anywhere near 4pm. Did the storm come early? Did it expand? I had no way of telling. So I pulled over, quickly through on my rain gear and rode into what I knew was going to be a pretty big storm. However, I thought, storms out here are quick. They last a few minutes, maybe a half hour and they’re gone, replaced by sunshine like you’ve never seen before!
That’s not exactly how it happened today. About two miles later, I was in a heavy down pour. My face shield fogged up (or perhaps it was my glasses), but it didn’t matter anyway because the rain was so hard, I couldn’t see.
I couldn’t really pull over anywhere because both sides of the road were basically rivers. I slowed down and kept on going.
The rain gear certainly helps. Without it, I would be soaked head to toe within minutes (within seconds in this rain). But it’s not very tight around the wrists. I’m not really sure what to do about that, but the sleeves of my jacket and my shirt were dripping wet almost immediately.
By the time I reached Cuba, around noon, the rain has slowed to just a steady deluge. There was no wind, thank god. But riding in a driving rain is tiring. I figured that it couldn’t last long. This was a wave. Once it passes, we’ll have some sun and sure, maybe it will rain again, but that’s ok.
Cuba has a ton of great murals. I wanted to take pictures of all of them, but the rain was making my camera suddenly shut off. I’m not surprised and it does seem to be working fine now, but I had to keep taking it out and it was getting rained upon. I did take a picture of every Civil War mural in Cuba, though.
[As I’m writing this, my camera is now turning itself on and off as if having a mind of its own. This is not a good sign.]
Of course, just after Cuba, rain or no rain, I had to stop and take Ruby’s picture under the largest rocking chair in the universe. The people at the store next to it were looking at me in a bit of disbelief. The rain was pretty heavy at this point. My helmet isn’t totally waterproof, but it does ok. And now my boots were proving just how not waterproof they are. I’m not sure what to do about that.
Route 66 takes a break from being the interstate’s kid sister in St. James, taking you through the town itself. Or rather, it would if there wasn’t a lot of construction. So back to the frontage road for me.
Here, the rain began to fall harder than any rain I’ve ever ridden through before.
Just before the town of Rolla, I stopped in a Love’s Truck Stop. They had a Subway and it would be nice to wait out the storm there.
I walk through the doors and the follow at the counter, in a thick southern accent, asks where I was coming from. “St. Louis,” was my reply. He tells me that the worst is over and that it should be ok soon, if I’m heading west.
Perfect. Just what I wanted to hear. I head for the bathroom, take off the rain gear and found a weird cologne vending machine. It was creepy. I dried off a bit and then ordered a veggie sub at Subway. I figured that by the time I was done with this, it would all be ok and I’d be on my way to Lebanon, roughly 60 or 70 miles west of here.
Well after eating the sub, things were a bit different than I had hoped. I walked to the window and it was somehow raining even harder than it was before. I wasn’t sure that such a thing was possible, but trust me - a VERY hard rain.
A waited about an hour. Nothing. And the Weather Channel on one of the display TVs in the truck stop said that it was going to rain basically forever.
It was about 3:30 and the rain, while far from stopping, wasn’t nearly as driving. I threw on the rain gear and managed to pull together the last bits of desire to ride another 60 miles and mounted up.
About a mile down the road, and roughly a mile to the town of Rolla, the rain picked up, my face shield fogged over, as did my glasses. I threw open the face shield in a pointless attempt to see anything.
It helped a bit, I could see. But all I could see was that the road was taking a weird uphill bend and that a good section of the road was buckling.
The shoulder was gone. There was a wash, filled with about a six inches of rushing water. I leaned a bit, out of the curve, to escape it, but leaning out of a banked curve in a monsoon with fogged over face shield and rain-blinded glasses isn’t as easy as you might think.
And a second later, Ruby and I were bouncing along the “cliff” of the road which quickly disintegrated into a rather large and muddy ditch.
Somehow I managed to keep the rubber side down, so we were both safe. However, we were both also sinking. I revved the engine and the real wheel just spun in the thick Missouri clay.
I was lucky, in a way. If I would have entered the ditch a bit earlier, I would have stuck the front wheel in the much larger gully and flown over the handle bars. Lucky me.
The adrenalin was pumping, so I figured that I better take advantage of it. I grabbed the rear of the bike, but nothing. I could move the front wheel, but that didn’t help anything.
A few cars passed, the drivers craning their necks to see the scooterist clearly in a distressed state.
I tried to move the rear again. Nothing.
Thankfully, a family in a pick up truck stopped and their 14 year old boy and I were able to move the rear wheel just enough that I could get some traction on the wet stones. I’d rev the engine and she’d move an inch or so. We did this for about five minutes until I was up and on both wheels.
I thanked them over and over (as one should), took a few pictures and figured that this kind of thing was bound to happen. I reapplied the Cat Crap de-fogger stuff to my face shield and glasses (not a fun task in a heavy rain). But it helped.
It got us into Rolla, but while I wasn’t fogging up, the rain drops were sticking like snot to the front of the shield. I was blind again. If I lifted the shield, my glasses would be covered, if I let it down, I couldn’t really see.
In utter frustration, I pulled over in front of the Rustic Motel. I thought about it for about five seconds and registered at the office.
And that is where I am now. Room 120, if anyone cares to visit.
Today was crap. Pure, utter crap. I saw basically nothing. Rode only about 100 miles and am still 60 (ugh, maybe more) away from Lebanon - my goal for the night. Missing out on my daily goal is no big deal, but I really just wasn’t ready for this much rain.
Luckily, most of my bags are waterproofish. Though this amount of rain makes even waterproof things rethink such claims. My camera seems to be dead. There are three or four Chinese places in town and I REALLY want tofu, but It’s still pouring and all my gear is drying out.
Today can rot in hell.
Miles traveled: 101
Miles total: 1457
Map of where I was. “B” is where I crashed.
And here was the weather today.
- Remember him? The guy who wrote the first guide book to Route 66 back in the mid-40’s. [↩]




