Category Archives: 1936 Ikoflex II

Botching Two Rolls of Film Just for Fun!

Not too horribly long ago, I got two new old cameras. The first was a 1936 Ikoflex, a sophisticated little camera that should take some great shots. The next was a 1940 Kodak Popular Brownie, a simple box camera.

After shooting a roll on each of them, I’m sort of disappointed with myself.

The Ikoflex had all that fancy photography stuff like aperture settings and different shutter speeds. It’s very capable of capturing some fine photos. Most of the roll, however, was washed out, except for the first photo.

See?

So what happened? It’s rather embarrassing. I forgot that the aperture settings are measured “backwards.” Meaning, when you open the iris, the numbers decrease rather than increase. I had it backwards. It’s been awhile since I really thought about f/stops. I had the camera set for f5ish for most of the time in the sunny desert. That’s bound to end badly when shooting on 100 speed film.

The Popular Brownie, however, might have to be my dark winter camera. This one has no aperture settings and has no adjustable shutter speed. It’s a very simple point and shoot. When it was made, seventy or so years ago, I’m sure it worked just fine. But since then, the spring has probably gotten a little weak and the shutter speed has slowed a bit.

This gives you some washed out photos, which is a real shame. The two that you see here were the only things that came out. Everything else was almost completely white.

Thankfully, Seattle is typically cloudy, so from October through May, this camera will work just fine. It’ll take some experimenting, but I bet I can find the right conditions for it.

New Old Camera from Pre-War Germany!

A couple of weeks ago, I found myself in possession of a new old camera. It’s a 1936, German-made Zeiss-Ikon Ikoflex II.

By a long stretch, this is the most sophisticated film camera that I own, having a working aperture and ability to focus. The Holga, and even the 1914 Kodak Brownie, have that, but this is more precise. Also, being a twin lens reflex camera, you can see the changes you make in focus through the viewfinder. Whatever you do to the exposure lens is also done to the viewing lens. This seems cumbersome, but it works. It’s even got shutterspeed settings!

Unlike every other 120 camera that I have, the Ikoflex doesn’t have a little red window in the back to let you know which photo you’re on. See, 120 film has a paper backing. Printed on the backing are numbers corresponding to the exposure you’re on.

bark bark bark

This one, however, has a more modern exposure counter. While nifty, this presents a problem.

See, film of the 1930s was actually a bit thicker than film made today. This matters because the exposures are counted by by the pressure of the film against one of the rollers. As it was originally thicker, the roll on the take up reel was thicker.

This really doesn’t make a lot of sense to me, but it seems to be true. The thinner film of today winds tighter and makes the exposures overlap. So while the exposure counter technically works, it’s a bit off and all your photos run together.

Tape it up!

This can be handled in one of two ways, both of which achieve the same result. Some folks cut out a piece of paper about three inches long, the same thickness as the film, and taping one end to the take up reel and the other to the film. Others just wrap some tape around the take up reel. Both make the take up reel thicker and thus makes you have to turn the advancer knob less (and thus it brings the counter to a more accurate state, so your photos won’t overlap).

Film is here now!

Most folks seem to use two layers of masking tape. But then other folks don’t notice a problem at all. This is because, even today, all films are of a different thickness. It’s rather random and I have no idea what to do about it aside from trial and error. But trial and error is why I got into film in the first place.

Ready to go!

I’m hoping to get some great shots with it. We shall see.